Four-Strand Ruby CZ Layered Necklace Set in Two-Tone

Red is the oldest colour in Indian bridal jewellery, and also the easiest to get wrong — too much of it and a necklace turns into a block of colour. This set solves that with structure: four separate strands, each one a line of ruby-red stones individually framed in white, so that the red is always broken by light.

The design

The strands are graduated, the shortest resting just below the collarbone and the longest falling to the upper chest. Each is built from alternating shapes — rectangles, ovals and pear drops — and every stone sits inside its own halo of tiny white cubic zirconia. The lowest strands end in a fringe of pear-shaped drops, which is what gives the piece its movement when you turn.

The earrings are a single long column of stacked ruby stones, each in its own white frame, ending in a pear drop. They are deliberately narrow, so they balance the width of the necklace rather than competing with it.

The two-tone finish

The framework is finished in two tones: a white rhodium-look plating around the stones and a warm gold tone behind. In practice this makes the white halos brighter and the reds deeper than a single gold finish would, and it lets the set sit comfortably with both gold and silver-toned outfits and accessories.

How it is made

The base metal is brass, which holds the many small settings without distortion. Each stone is set by hand and secured with prongs on all four sides, then the piece is electroplated. A back chain with extension links fastens it, so the four strands can be adjusted to lie evenly whatever the neckline.

Where it belongs

This is a wedding-day and reception piece. It is at its best against plain red, wine or ivory, and on a sweetheart or deep round neckline that leaves room for all four strands. With a high-necked blouse, wear the strands slightly higher using the extension chain so the top strand clears the fabric. Keep the rest minimal — the set already carries the colour.

Presentation

The necklace and earrings are checked stone by stone before they leave us and arrive in a Keyura Luxe wooden presentation box, which is also the right place to keep them between wears.

What it is, plainly

Ruby-red cubic zirconia and white CZ on plated brass. It is not set with natural rubies or diamonds, and it is not solid gold. It is a carefully made statement set, priced as one, and described exactly as it is.

Caring for it

Plated jewellery keeps its colour longest when it is the last thing you put on and the first thing you take off. Let perfume, hairspray and lotion settle before wearing it, keep it away from water, and wipe it gently with a soft dry cloth after each wear. Store it flat in its box, away from other pieces, so stones cannot rub against the plating.